Just wanted to post a quick blog about my most recent competition, the Desert Classic at Focus Climbing Center!
The competition took place on Saturday (9/27) and began with a 3 hour redpoint. I had a great time climbing in the redpoint with my friends and knocking down some fun problems. The top 8 climbers were then taken from the redpoint to onsight finals that evening.
The format for finals was 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off, with 4 problems. My first problem was a tough slab with a heinous mantle at the beginning. I achieved the highpoint and am looking forward to working (and then sending!) the problem this week.
My second problem was on a more vertical wall and had a lot of volumes! I felt confident climbing it and completed the problem on my second attempt. The third problem was powerful with a dyno at the beginning, followed by some burley moves. I also sent this problem on my second attempt and was so excited!
The fourth problem was definitely one of my favorites, it involved a dyno and a double toe hook. I was struggling with the double toe hook so I ended up not using it, which was a wise decision. Near the end of my time I climbed to the highpoint and fell off because I was so pumped! This is another problem I cannot wait to work and send this week!
Overall, the competition was a blast and I am so excited to have walked home with 1st place!
On to the next adventure…
2014 ABS Nationals
Photo: Just Fab Photography
Photo: Kevin Martin
What a crazy weekend it has been!
On Saturday, I competed at the 3rd annual Portland Boulder Rally!
The day began early, with a 9:30 AM check-in time followed by an interview with ClimbingNarc (click here to view interview). Open qualifiers took place from 11 AM-2 PM, and the field was stacked. So many incredible male/female climbers were competing, it was bound to be tough to break the top 6.
I was so excited to qualify in 5th place! I could not wait to get on the finals problems that night, the setters always have something incredible in store!
Finals were streamed live via LT11 and ClimbingNarc. I love competitions that are streamed because it gives everyone a chance to view the competition, even if they cannot make it to the venue. Great job as always guys!
I placed 6th in finals, and had so much fun! The problems delivered the right amount of difficulty, were technical/powerful/interesting/crowd pleasing, all at the same time. It was awesome to try so many unique new problems.
I apologize for the short recap, but I am dead tired from a day of traveling! I left Portland to fly straight to Maui, where I am climbing/vacationing for a week. I cannot wait for all of the adventures this week will bring…but I will keep everyone updated!
On to the next adventure…
Whew! Another trip has come and gone quickly!
I had the pleasure of spending this past weekend at the grand opening of Sender One, Chris Sharma’s climbing gym, in Santa Ana, California.
My trip began on Thursday where I caught an early flight to Orange County that morning. My parents picked me up from the airport where I headed to Roxy headquarter sand then Oakley headquarters. Big thanks to both Roxy and Oakley for the new gear! You guys rock! That night we headed back to the hotel and went straight to bed, I had to wake up early for a Sanuk meeting in the morning.
Friday began with my meeting at Sanuk, which was so much fun! I love the Sanuk crew and the shenanigans that always happen in the office! I’m lucky to have such incredible sponsors.
After my Sanuk meeting, I went to Sender One. Friday was members only day/night and the professional athlete competition practice round. It was fun to try problems with so many other climbers and start strategizing with my team. I was on “Team Orange” with Alex Johnson, Carlo Traversi, Daniel Beall, and Kevin Jorgeson.
Saturday was all about the Sender One grand opening. Sender One had free climbing for everyone, which made for a crazy turnout of people. People began lining up at 9 AM (the gym officially opened at 10 AM), and the line was out the door throughout the entire day. Sender One did over 800 belay checkouts!
That afternoon I did a Sanuk autograph signing with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda. The turnout was incredible! I had so much fun meeting so many new people and climbers, it was really exciting.
The main event of the Sender One grand opening was the invitational competition that night. While I was on the Orange Team, there was also the Black Team (Angie Payne, Courtney Sanders, Michael Bautista, Paul Robinson, and Tommy Caldwell), and the Blue Team (Ashima Shirashi, Chris Sharma, Joe Kinder, Kyle Owen, and Meagan Martin). So many strong climbers were in one place, it was awesome!
The competition was different than other because we were grouped in teams and were only given 5 attempts within one hour. This called for a lot of strategy among the climbers, we had to decide whether we wanted to play it safe and climb problems we knew we could send, or take a riskier approach and go for harder problems, but also risk losing an attempt. The other rule was that we could not repeat our teammates problems.
In the end, Black Team ended up winning, with my team, Orange, in second, and the Blue Team in third. It was a really fun format and I’m looking forward to the next time I get to compete in this unique format.
Father’s Day took place after the competition. Since both of my parents travel with me, I was lucky to spend the holiday with both of my amazing parents. We spent the day lounging around Hermosa Beach and enjoying the beautiful weather.
Monday and Tuesday were spent catching up with old friends, hitting the beach, and attending more meetings. To say this trip went by too quickly is an understatement, it went by at lightening speed!
On to the next adventure…
Pro climber Sierra Blair-Coyle is having a moment
Fierce climbing competitor—and Roxy’s newest Outdoor Fitness ambassador—still makes time for homework
Photo Courtesy of: Margaux Brooke
2012 Aesthetic Climbing Gym Invitational
Women’s Final 1
2009 Thresh Hold Showdown